Saturday, 27 August 2011

Trekking in the Swiss National Park, Aug 2011

Growing up, people used to throw around the expression "just a walk in the park" implying that something was going to be easy or effortless.  Well, after spending a weekend in the Swiss National park, I can assure you that a walk there doesn't really support this notion!

This picture was taken looking into Italy on the way down from the summit on our last day in the Swiss National Park

The GF has long realized that I'm like a dog....if I don't get walked regularly I create havoc at home. So, she thoughtfully planned a trekking weekend to the Swiss National Park near Davos.  The plans were straight forward.  Drive down to Zernez on Friday and park the car.  Walk to a mountain hut for Friday evening, walk to the only hotel in the park for Saturday evening and then drive home on Sunday.  Just a walk in the park...right?

Although this was our first visit to the park, it was certainly NOT our first time walking in Switzerland so we should have known that there are really only two directions for walking...up and down.  We knew that it was only a short distance (approx 3 hrs) to the mountain hut but failed to appreciate that the first two hours were straight up and only the third one was down.  Normally, this would be welcomed with open enthusiasm but when carrying the entire kit for the weekend through a thunderstorm, it seemed more than what we had bargained for.

The next morning was fantastic!  The skies had cleared over night revealing stars like I've not seen before.  It was also the day that the GF learned the value of reading topographic maps.  You see, the hike she had planned for day two required us to climb up and over the mountain range.  Again, usually not a problem but this particular walk involved gnarly switch backs pretty much straight up from the doorstep of the hut.

I like this picture for two reasons.  The first is it is an example of the hours of switchbacks that we walked in the morning of day two.  The other reason is that you can see the trail from day one traversing across the mountain in the middle ground in the centre of the frame
I pretty much giggled to myself the whole way up because it was the first time that I could enjoy an uphill climb without feeling guilty because she had chosen it!  After a long, grueling ascent the view that awaited us in the pass was breath taking.

This photo was taken a few vertical metres from the top of the pass looking in the direction we were traveling.  The mountains in this part of Switzerland look like an uncomfortable cross between the Bernese Alps and the Dolomites
As we descended we got views of this stunning lake.  The colour was a strange milky turquoise that reminded me of glacier milk in Argentina
After a quick, steep descent into the neighbouring valley and another 4 hours of walking we arrived at the Hotel.  Fortunately, not only was the beer inexpensive (relatively) but the food was fantastic!

This photo was taken towards the end of the hike on Day 2 looking back in the direction from which we'd come.  In fact, we had climbed up and over this mountain passing through almost directly above the tip of the small tree in the middle of the frame
Sunday morning again greeted us with perfect conditions for trekking.  The decision had been made the night before to summit the mountain overlooking the hotel.  An early start and we quickly found ourselves walking up again.  However, this was probably the most enjoyable hike of my time here in Switzerland.  We were walking through one of the most beautiful larch forests I have ever seen.  It reminded me a lot of my ski season in Lake Louise.  Because of the early start, there was nobody else on the trail and so we were able to enjoy the tranquility of the moment.

The mountain in the background was the one that we had gone over the day before (almost directly above the house).  This is a rangers hut that we stumbled across just above the tree line on Sunday's walk

This monument greeted us at the summit.  We had an almost perfect morning to make this ascent.  We were extremely fortunate to have beaten the crowds giving us a few minutes alone to take it all in

It's pretty easy to understand how one can get lost in thought when looking down and across this scenery.  The lake here is in Italy with it's higher snow capped mountains in the distance
We made excellent time and were on the summit of the 2590m mountain shortly after 10 am.  The panoramic views of the Swiss/Italian alps were amazing.  After 3 years of trekking in Switzerland, it was here that, for the first time, we came across edelweiss in the wild....and yes, I couldn't help belting out a few prose of the song made famous by Christopher Plummer!

After years of looking we finally came across edelweiss in the wild.  Once above a certain altitude, the alpine meadows on the final day's walk were full of it.
Although this experience didn't support the idea that a walk in the park is something easy or to be taken lightly, it was some of the most enjoyable trekking that I've done in Switzerland.  As you can imagine, in a country that is 225 times smaller than Canada but with a population that is only 4.3 times less it's not easy to find true wilderness; however, this is exactly what the Swiss National Park provided.  It really is a special place to visit.


Sunday, 14 August 2011

One to remember - Aletsch Glacier, Aug2011



The tragedy of life is not so much what men suffer, but rather what they miss.  ~Thomas Carlyle


I came across this quotation the other day and it really struck a cord.  I'm not overly fussed with only having one kick at the can of life, but I am terrified that I won't make the most of it.  So, this past weekend, we decided to treat our visitors from Canada to the full Swiss experience!  In my opinion, you can't come to Switzerland without experiencing Swiss Mountain Hospitality, and you can't leave Switzerland without seeing the mighty Aletsch Glacier.


This photo was taken a few hundred vertical metres from the top looking back towards the valley.  The end of the glacier is visible to the right
Now, I must be getting old because the last two years had completely dulled my recollection of just how spectacular this glacier (and the surrounding area) is.  It wasn't until I rounded the corner and caught my first glimpse of this glacier that I was reminded just how fricking spectacular it is.  The glacier snakes it's way down from the top of Jungfraujoch and eventually ends some 23 kms down the valley; this makes it the longest and most voluminous slab of ice in the European Alps.  That's right Chamonix, eat your heart out!  


I couldn't resist taking this photo.  I know it's very stereotypical but I also thought it made a great photo.  The Aletsch glacier starts approximately 20 kms up the valley at Jungfraujoch
This year, unlike our previous visit to Bettmeralp, we decided to take the cable car to the top and walk down along the glacier.  Although I much prefer ascending, taking this hike from top to bottom actually offers you better views of the glacier and still makes for an enjoyable hike.  The first hour is spent descending down towards the glacier.  You spend a considerable amount of time climbing through the remains of an amazing rock slide.  All the while, what you thought was already a spectacular glacier just becomes that much more impressive.  From the top, the ice looks smooth an uniform but as you get closer, you begin to realize just how jagged the ice actually is.  For the truly adventurous, this first section of the hike can end with an up close and personal glacier experience!


Couldn't resist this one either.  As we descended closer to the glacier the deep blue ice colour and ragged surface became much more apparent
From there, after a short but steep ascent we treated ourselves to a nice apfleshorle and took the shortcut through the pedestrian tunnel.  This likely saved us 2 more hours of walking but also came at a costs.  We were not able to see the second glacier which isn't as big but still offers some spectacular scenery.  Another 2 hrs and we were back in Bettmeralp trying some of the local Weiss bier! (wheat beer)


One of the million beautiful views in Bettmeralp.  This chapel greets you as you arrive in town.
All in all, the Aletsch glacier is truly one of the most amazing experiences in Switzerland. It is only a three hour train ride (door to door) from Basel making it possible to visit here in a day (a long one!).  Now, what Swiss weekend experience would be complete without a little adrenaline?  For three years now I've been dying to ride a pimped up scooter down a mountain.  Fortunately, Bettmeralp offered me this opportunity.  Two of us rented these  scooters and made our way down from the top gondola station to the middle station in about 20 minutes.  It was by far, the best 6 francs I have ever spent!

So, if the tragedy of life is leaving stones unturned then at least i have a few less today then I did when this weekend started.


There is always time to goof around





Saturday, 6 August 2011

Hospitality in a remote Swiss mountain hut - July 30th, 2011

They say that the world' largest migration takes place in the Serengeti when the large animal herds of Africa head north-south in pursuit of water and food.  I would argue that what takes place in Switzerland during the National Holiday long weekend probably rivals that!

August 1st is Switzerland's Birthday and naturally, the population takes to the mountains and Lakes in pursuit of a little rest and relaxation.  This year, we decided to do the same but with a little twist.  We had agreed to a trekking vacation to the Bernese Oberland region where we'd start in one location, stay in a remote mountain hut only accessible by foot, and finish in another.  I couldn't think of a better Adventure in Switzerland.

Saturday morning we boarded the train destined for Interlaken.  The plan was to ascend the mountain to First (pronounced "fear-st") and start the walk towards Schynige Platte.  Now, this is not the first time that I've done this trip, however, it was the first time that we'd planned to stay in a hut along the way.

The view of Lake Brienz and Interlaken from the ridge above at Schynige Platte
The first day was relatively straight forward.  Unfortunately, in all of the times that I've been to First, I've still yet to see this place in all of her glory.  There is an incredible view from here across an alpine meadow lake that is featured on the cover of many Swiss travel brochures and books, yet each time I'm here it is always covered in cloud.  Oh well, I guess that's as good an excuse as any to come back!  

We spent the first two hour trekking across and up to finally reach Faulhorn.  This is also a relatively remote mountain hut that is literally perched on the very tip of a mountain outcrop.  It's also the start of the World's longest winter sledge run which is an absolute must for this winter!

A short 1 hour trip beyond Faulhorn and we had arrived at the Mountain hut (Weber Hutte or Berghaus-Manndlenen)  Fortunately for us, minutes after we walked in the front door, the rain came teaming down.  

A shot of Weber Hutte take from the ledge above on the morning of Day 2.  You can see the path descending across to the right
The hut is a lovely place to spend an evening.  The night that we were there we shared the space with approximately 30 other trekkers.  The beer was flowing when we arrived, interrupted only by a delicious meal of racklette (A Swiss delicacy of melted cheese of boiled potato and pickles).  The dormitory living arrangements brought back memories of summer camp.  (Travellers hint - always pack earplugs as undoubtably you will run across a loud snorer!)


Day two was what made it all worth while.  Nothing in this world is a beautiful as watching the sunrise across the Bernese Alps on an absolutely clear and still morning.  A short walk before breakfast rewarded me with some stunning views.  After a quick breakfast we were back on the trail.  The second part of this walk is absolutely amazing.  

This was the view that greeted us on the morning of Day 2.  It's taken from the terrace at Weber Hutte looking West as the sun rises behind us

This shot was taken maybe 20 minutes into the hike on Day two.  It's the first view of Lake Brienz in the far distance.  The lake in the front is just a small alpine lake.  Just beyond the ridge in the front right is Axalp (see earlier posts)
You walk through a natural rock garden, traverse high alpine meadows bursting with wild flowers as Lake Brienz slowly reveals itself and finally you pop out at Schynige Platte.  

This place is one of my favourites in Switzerland (see earlier posts) because it offers panoramic views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains to one side and overlooks Lake Brienz on the other.  It really is one of the most spectacular views on earth (on a clear day)

One of the first views of the Eiger and Monch mountains.  Unfortunately, as we walked the clouds that were originally located in the valley began to ascend as the temperature rose, eventually completely erasing our views

One of the thousand views along the trail looking towards the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains.  I tried to capture the diversity of wild flowers in the foreground of this shot

A 1 hour descent from Schynige Platte on the cog train, a quick lunch in Interlaken and we were back on our way to Basel...just in time to watch the most incredible fireworks display I have ever seen.  (the Swiss love to throw a party!) Fortunately, returning on Sunday meant we missed the bulk of the return migration back from the countryside

Saturday, 23 July 2011

120Km down a mountain in a bobsled, St. Moritz, 2010

Since moving to Switzerland I have always been amazed at the lack of health and safety regulations compared to North America.  Since everybody is self insured here, the government and industry are not overly concerned with being sued.  As a result, you can do stuff here that you simply could not get away with in North America.  A perfect example is what my GF gave me for my 33rd birthday gift.

To my surprise, she was able to get me a ride down the Olympic Bobsled track in St. Moritz Switzerland!  Now, what's so impressive about this track is that it is the only natural ice bobsled track left in the world.  That's right, each winter an Italian guy comes to Switzerland with his team and constructs the exact same track from all natural ice.  The implications of this is that you get one hell of an unpredictable trip down the mountain at a maximum speed of over 120 km/hr.

It doesn't look bad in this 2 dimensional drawing but let me tell you, it's one hell of a ride to the bottom!
Fortunately for us, the weather couldn't have been better.  It was a bright sunny February day but the temperature was still cold enough to keep the integrity of the ice.  The way that it works is you show up in the morning and register.  When we arrived there was an official race taking place.  After the race finished we suited up, waited our turn and then jumped into the four man bobsled.  Remarkably, they actually provided a helmet (the first sign of safety concern) but minus the visor.  Now one wouldn't normally find this concerning but have you ever stuck your head out of the car window as it raced down the highway at speeds in excess of 120 km/hr.  If you have, you'll know that it sucks!

The view from the starting line was terrific.  This part of the Swiss Alps is really quite different from the Bernese Oberland.  No matter where were are, I'm always amazed a the beauty of the mountains
Either way, we were off.  Our driver sat in the front and the brakeman sat in the back.  Between them the two unsuspecting passengers.

The start was actually quite boring.  I was hoping we were going to get to push off like they do in the olympics.  Instead, they already had us sitting in the bobsled and only the brakesman gave us a little push to get going.
This was perhaps the most intense minute and twenty seconds of my life! (enter sex joke here)  The beginning of the trip was actually quite boring.  We started out slowly (I was actually afraid that this was going to be it) but gradually we picked up speed.  Eventually, the G force around corners was so strong that it actually compressed you into the bottom of the bobsled. I lost all ability to control my head which resulted in it flopping side to side with each corner.  This was the world's most intense (and likely dangerous) roller coaster and it was great.  When we finally came to a stop, the adrenaline was pumping through my veins. The experience was over!

Obviously, there is much more in St. Moritz to do than just bobsled.   We also spent a day in the mountains skiing.  Again, the weather was fantastic!

There is a natural skating rink in the middle of the town.  Unfortunately, the rental skates and the ice were horrible by Canadian standards but it still offered great humour as our British friends tried skating for the first time
It turns out that running "tourists" down the track every day actually funds the tracks operations for the whole winter.  I have a new respect for the amateur and professional bobsledders.  Given the opportunity, I would certainly do it again only this time I would demand a helmet with a visor!

Beauty all around....Axalp, Switzerland

Beauty is an interesting thing.  Some claim that it is the eye of the beholder, others say it is the promise of the future, I say it is Axalp Switzerland on a bright, sunny Saturday afternoon.

My very first mountain hike in Switzerland was at Axalp.  At that time, we were training for a month long trekking vacation to Nepal (see earlier posts).  It was the perfect location for this first hike because you can get to some moderate altitude without having to walk it.  This hike offers some spectacular mountain views looking out over lake Brienz (one of the two lakes that converge at Interlaken (translation "between lakes", Switzerland).   Axalp also has a beautiful emerald green alpine lake that greets you almost 3/4 of the way through the trek.

The hike the we took was to walk up, around and then down towards this alpine lake.  In the process you receive stunning panoramic views over Lake Brienz
This is one of the most interesting hikes that I've experienced in Switzerland.  The start is a gradual uphill climb up one of the roads that service the ski resort.  Once you get to the Hilten (disappointed to learn it wasn't part of the Hilton Chain of hotels) you leave the road and continue a steady climb up.  After about 20 mins the trail forks either down toward the alpine lake or continues upwards, through a pretty exposed section of trail, towards the Bowl overlooking the Lake.  We decided to continue upwards.  From there, the trail wraps around the lake and starts to traverse across towards the valley.  With each step, the bright blue waters of Lake Brienz reveal themselves.

We walked up from the right of this picture, past the little house in the valley and continued up before traversing towards lake Brienz.  Another trail takes you up from the house towards the left of this photo and back through the valley towards Axalp.
This photo was taken looking back up the valley in the direction from which we'd come.  
We took the opportunity to perch ourselves on a flat rock overlooking the lake to wolf down a picnic lunch.  It's hard to beat a "made on the spot" salami sandwich, a panoramic mountain view of the alps and Lake Brienz on a beautiful sunny afternoon.
Lake Brienz eventually reveals itself with each step.  Brienz is the waterfront town seen in the bottom right at the opposite end of the lake from Interlaken

Another shot of Lake Brienz.  In this photo you can see Axalp on the hill on the left hand side of the picture.  This is where our hike started and would eventually end
The walk down towards the alpine lake is quite steep.  I was thrilled that we'd chosen the direction of the hike that we did.  After approx 30 min downhill it was a short walk to the alpine lake.  The clarity of the water is truly remarkable.  It was gutting to watch good size trout swimming through the waters and not having a rod to test my luck!  Another hour walk and we were back at the car.  This last hour walk is quite interesting as there are 8 local wood carvers who have applied their practice to over 100 stumps on the walk out.  The works range from carvings of flowers, to people, to fish, small mammals, birds of prey and pigs.  It really is a one of a kind experience.

A photo through the trees of the alpine lake that we visited.  This is a popular picnic area for Swiss families.  It's not unusual to see people roasting sausages for lunch over an open fire
Axalp is only just over two hours from Basel. Both times I've done this hike it has always been a day trip.  An both times we've stopped for ice cream on the terrace at the Grand Hotel Geissbach.  This hotel is flanked on one side by a spectacular waterfall descending into Lake Brienz on the other.  It's really worth a visit.

Webster's dictionary defines beauty as "the quality or aggregate of qualities in a person or thing that gives pleasure to the senses or pleasurable exalts the mind or spirit".  I can't think of a better way to describe this little corner of the earth.  

Sunday, 19 June 2011

Scuba diving the Red Sea.....a dream come true! Sharm el Sheikh, Feb 2009

There are some things that, for whatever reason, you've just always wanted to do.  For me, scuba diving in the red sea was right up there on the list.  Egypt has always seemed like such a far off, foreign place.  For a Canadian, it is literally on the other side of the world.  However, once you move to Europe you realize that it is just across the Mediterranean.  As such, it was an easy choice when looking for a week get away to choose Sharm el Sheikh, a resort town on the southern tip of the Sinai peninsula in Egypt.

Now, at this time, we'd still only been living in Europe for just over 6 months so when it came time to booking an all inclusive, we simply walked into the nearest travel agent and booked.  Little did we realize that this meant the resort that we were staying at would cater exclusively to German speaking guests.  What this meant was that only a few if any of the staff spoke English, and our German was still pathetic.   The consequence was any number of misunderstandings each of which made this vacation a little more of an adventure than the next.

It was so refreshing to see palm trees in the middle of February.  It was still a little early in the season for outrageous temperatures and we even had a little rain!

Yup, you're right, not a bad room.  Unfortunately, ours was the upstairs one but essentially each room was pool side

Now, as soon as we realized that Sharm would be the destination I got onto the web looking for dive shops.  The idea was for the GF to get certified so that we could dive together.  Unfortunately, it wasn't to be as asthma kept her out of the water even after seeking a second opinion from the guru of scuba diving medicine in Egypt.  With this disappointing news, an opportunity emerged. The guide who she had been working with was now free for the week.  Seeing my chance I seized the opportunity to book him for private lessons to get my Advanced Open Water PADI certification. (I had previously competed my Open water in Phuket Thailand)

This was on second dive on the second last day.  We missed a whale shark here by about 20 mins.  I can not begin to explain how great the diving is in Sharm.  The only disadvantage is it's crowded unless you go off season like I did!
This is a tremendous course as you're doing multiple dives each day in a location supporting arguably, the best diving in the world.  We did drift dives, wall dives, shore dives, boat dives all of which culminated in two dives at the SS Thistlegorm wreck, a world war two supply ship that was sunk fully loaded, while it waited to pass through the Sinai canal.  Two dives on the SS Thistlegorm are not enough but it was my first time actually navigating my way through the holds and hallways of a wreck....incredible!

Unfortunately, this trip was before I had my Go Pro camera so recording the dive to SS Thistlegorm wasn't possible.  This obviously isn't it but it was another cool wreck that we saw along the way
When we weren't on a dive boat, we decided to fly to Cairo for a day to take in the wonders of the Ancient Egyptian empire.  After an early morning flight, we drove through Cairo to the great pyramid of Giza.  Unfortunately, we just happened to be there during a sand storm which actually gave a whole new appreciation for just how inhospitable the desert can be.

The Great Pyramids are truly amazing.  Unfortunately for us, the visibility was horrible because of the sand storm.  Anything white, including my sunglasses were never quite white again!

For a brief moment the sun broke through and I captured this photo.  Really just an interesting perspective on the Pyramids.  What you can't see if that each layer of the pyramid is almost as tall as a person
We also travelled to the Sphinx where I was disappointed to see that 180 degrees from looking at the Sphinx you can find a Kentucky Fried Chicken outlet.  It was a very different experience that what I had expected.

I love this photo.  Unfortunately, the visibility still isn't good but it gives and erie atmosphere to the photo.  If I had turned 180 degrees from this spot I could take a photo of the KFC store.  Very disappointing
Our guide did a great job of speaking to the politics of the country, a conversation that I can't help but remember given the recent changes in Egyptian politics.  He also welcomed us into the "university" of Islamic teachings, a massive Mosque close to the old shopping area of Cairo.  This was my first experience entering a Mosque and it was quite different from what I expected.  I have to say, I was thoroughly refreshed by his approach.  He believed that Muslims needed to be much more transparent with their teachings so that others could better understand and even participate.  What a novel concept!
Unfortunately, the following day, in the exact spot where he explained his philosophy to us, a bomb was detonated killing a few tourists.  It's sad to think that others can't be as open, welcoming and tolerant as he.

This was my first experience in a Mosque.  Our guide was very open and asked us to take photographs.  His philosophy was the more people witnessed and understood, the less they would fear.  I tend to agree
All in all, Egypt absolutely delivered on its promise!  The diving and resorts in Sharm exceeded expectations.  The town itself is far too touristy for my liking but really, it's wrong to expect otherwise.  And finally, getting a glimpse at Cairo and the Pyramids was truly an experience I shall not soon forget. (sampling "traditional Egyptian cuisine" at TGI Friday's on the other hand was a different story).  I will absolutely return to Egypt as I feel we've only brushed the surface, not only from a diving perspective but also from a historic and cultural one.  The Valley of the Kings and a cruise down the Nile are both still on the list!  Stay tuned.

Where East meets West - Istanbul, August 2009

Relationships are a funny thing.  Sometimes they happen by chance and sometimes they are planned, sometimes they take a while to develop and sometimes there is just such a natural and strong attraction that they root and flourish almost immediately.  This was my experience with Istanbul.  The love affair began almost as soon as I stepped off of the plane.

In August of 2009, a friend from Canada was traveling to Turkey to visit with family.  She had always offered to show me around Istanbul if we were ever in the city at the same time.  Well, fortunately for me, her latest trip just happened to fall over a long weekend here in Switzerland, so the GF and I boarded a plane eastward with the destination of Istanbul.

This is one of the most magical cities on earth.  First, it is massive.  According to Wikipedia it boasts over 13.1M inhabitants which is almost twice the population of Switzerland in one city!  Now, that in itself doesn't make Istanbul special.  The cityscape is peppered with some of the most impressive mosques in the world, there are treasures left over from when Constantinople was the capital of the Roman Empire at almost every turn, there is exquisite, inexpensive dining everywhere and most importantly there is a youthful optimism and energy that permeates through the streets.  Yes, Istanbul is the most positively alive city that I've visited and you can't help but get caught up in it.

One of the walking/shopping streets in the old part of the city.  
This is the shopping street in the newer part of Istanbul.  Every so many minutes a trolley car runs right down the middle as people jump out of the way
This photo is taken beneath the city of Istanbul in the old water reservoirs built by the Romans.  This was one of the most impressive elements of the trip
A photo taken towards the newer part of town.  From the top of the Galata tower you have incredible views of the city

Of course, the religious tensions in the city also add to this contagious dynamic.  Istanbul straddles the two continents of Europe and Asia and it's population and culture are reflective of that.  Turkey is in the process of defining itself as some citizens embrace new freedoms and luxuries whereas others are fighting to instill religious conservatism.  This makes for a truly exciting visit.

Taken from the top of the Galata Tower, this photos shows the sheer number of impressive mosques that pepper the cityscape in Istanbul
This shot was taken from the rooftop patio of our hotel. It gives a good perspective of the size of Istanbul

We spent the first few days exploring the major sites in Istanbul.  We visited the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, went to the Grand Bazaar, walked around the crowded streets of the old town, visited the shopping district, climbed the Galata Tower, strolled through parks and explored the undergrounds Roman water reservoirs.  The plan was to then visit with our friend's family on Princes' Island which is about 1 hour by ferry from Istanbul.  Catching a ferry in Istanbul is an adventure all on it's own.  I'm still in awe that we actually managed to get onto the right one.

The Blue Mosque taken from the Bosphorous straight on our way out of the city to Princes' Island
One of the many mosques that adorn the cityscape in Istanbul.  There is another on the bottom left of the photo

The interior mosaic ceiling of the Blue Mosque.  This was only my second time in a Mosque and by far it was the most impressive
Princes' island is a car free island that is populated primarily by vacation dwellings.  We spent time lounging in the pool before deciding to walk up to the summit of the island.  A short horse and buggy ride to the start of the walk and off we went.  It was a very hot and uncomfortable climb to the top, but once there it was worth every effort.  The views back towards main land and Istanbul were incredible, not to mention the Turkish coffee and food at the top!  That evening, we had an incredible fresh seafood dinner at a local restaurant on the ocean before convincingly solving the world's problems while polishing off bottles of Raki.

A photo taken from our bedroom balcony on Princes' Island looking back towards the mainland.  We had absolutely exquisite weather
What can I say, I'm a sucker for butterfly photos.  Snapped this one while sitting around the swimming pool on Princes Island
Got another good one but of a different butterfly species in the same place.  There were thousands of tropic flowers everywhere
Taken from the summit on Princes' Island after a grueling hike up.  
I've never visited a city with so much energy and optimism like Istanbul.  It is moving quickly to modernize and the youth sense incredible potential in that.  All the while, you are reminded of it's previous rebirths by the historical and culture relics that dot the city.  Feeling such a profound connection to Istanbul, I have no doubt that this relationship will be fueled by many more visits in the future.