Saturday 6 August 2011

Hospitality in a remote Swiss mountain hut - July 30th, 2011

They say that the world' largest migration takes place in the Serengeti when the large animal herds of Africa head north-south in pursuit of water and food.  I would argue that what takes place in Switzerland during the National Holiday long weekend probably rivals that!

August 1st is Switzerland's Birthday and naturally, the population takes to the mountains and Lakes in pursuit of a little rest and relaxation.  This year, we decided to do the same but with a little twist.  We had agreed to a trekking vacation to the Bernese Oberland region where we'd start in one location, stay in a remote mountain hut only accessible by foot, and finish in another.  I couldn't think of a better Adventure in Switzerland.

Saturday morning we boarded the train destined for Interlaken.  The plan was to ascend the mountain to First (pronounced "fear-st") and start the walk towards Schynige Platte.  Now, this is not the first time that I've done this trip, however, it was the first time that we'd planned to stay in a hut along the way.

The view of Lake Brienz and Interlaken from the ridge above at Schynige Platte
The first day was relatively straight forward.  Unfortunately, in all of the times that I've been to First, I've still yet to see this place in all of her glory.  There is an incredible view from here across an alpine meadow lake that is featured on the cover of many Swiss travel brochures and books, yet each time I'm here it is always covered in cloud.  Oh well, I guess that's as good an excuse as any to come back!  

We spent the first two hour trekking across and up to finally reach Faulhorn.  This is also a relatively remote mountain hut that is literally perched on the very tip of a mountain outcrop.  It's also the start of the World's longest winter sledge run which is an absolute must for this winter!

A short 1 hour trip beyond Faulhorn and we had arrived at the Mountain hut (Weber Hutte or Berghaus-Manndlenen)  Fortunately for us, minutes after we walked in the front door, the rain came teaming down.  

A shot of Weber Hutte take from the ledge above on the morning of Day 2.  You can see the path descending across to the right
The hut is a lovely place to spend an evening.  The night that we were there we shared the space with approximately 30 other trekkers.  The beer was flowing when we arrived, interrupted only by a delicious meal of racklette (A Swiss delicacy of melted cheese of boiled potato and pickles).  The dormitory living arrangements brought back memories of summer camp.  (Travellers hint - always pack earplugs as undoubtably you will run across a loud snorer!)


Day two was what made it all worth while.  Nothing in this world is a beautiful as watching the sunrise across the Bernese Alps on an absolutely clear and still morning.  A short walk before breakfast rewarded me with some stunning views.  After a quick breakfast we were back on the trail.  The second part of this walk is absolutely amazing.  

This was the view that greeted us on the morning of Day 2.  It's taken from the terrace at Weber Hutte looking West as the sun rises behind us

This shot was taken maybe 20 minutes into the hike on Day two.  It's the first view of Lake Brienz in the far distance.  The lake in the front is just a small alpine lake.  Just beyond the ridge in the front right is Axalp (see earlier posts)
You walk through a natural rock garden, traverse high alpine meadows bursting with wild flowers as Lake Brienz slowly reveals itself and finally you pop out at Schynige Platte.  

This place is one of my favourites in Switzerland (see earlier posts) because it offers panoramic views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains to one side and overlooks Lake Brienz on the other.  It really is one of the most spectacular views on earth (on a clear day)

One of the first views of the Eiger and Monch mountains.  Unfortunately, as we walked the clouds that were originally located in the valley began to ascend as the temperature rose, eventually completely erasing our views

One of the thousand views along the trail looking towards the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains.  I tried to capture the diversity of wild flowers in the foreground of this shot

A 1 hour descent from Schynige Platte on the cog train, a quick lunch in Interlaken and we were back on our way to Basel...just in time to watch the most incredible fireworks display I have ever seen.  (the Swiss love to throw a party!) Fortunately, returning on Sunday meant we missed the bulk of the return migration back from the countryside

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