High Atlas Adventure - Morocco, May 2013

There are a few places that I've always wanted to visit but can't remember exactly why?  Morocco was one of these destination.  However, it wasn't until moving to Basel and realising just how easy it was to visit from here that I actually believed I'd get there.  I have to admit, as a child growing up in Canada I had very little understanding of what Morocco had to offer.  My impression of this part of Africa was that it was hot, it was sandy and it was predominantly barren.  I'm happy to report, that Morocco exceeded every one of my expectations!

It has only been in the last four years that I learned Morocco had mountains!  Speaking with fellow trekking lovers and alpine adventurers, I learned that the high Atlas mountains in Morocco are reputed to offers some terrific trekking.  This, and an extended block of bank holidays, were the only two excused that were needed to book a trip to Morocco.

The idea was to spend two days in Marrakesh to experience the urban lifestyle of Moroccans and then head into the Atlas Mountains for 3 days of trekking.  It was clear that when getting onto the aeroplane I should have done a bit more research.  Marrakesh is an amazing city that I recommend everybody to visit.  A word of caution, it is really two cities (old and new) so book your accommodations based on what you're hoping to experience.  The "new" Marrakesh is like any other modern, affluent city with Palm tree lined boulevards, big hotels and modern restaurants.

Personally, not at all what I was interested to experience.  The old city is the definition of chaos with people, cats, dogs, cars, bikes, mopeds, all moving in different directions at once....in other words, it is magical!

This is a non-descript corner just outside of the tourist part of the old city.  It's important to understand that behind many of these walls are found some stunning internal courtyards!

We stayed in a Rihad in the northern part of the old, walled city that is much less frequented by tourists.  Upon arrival, we learned that traditionally, the Moroccan people do not showcase their wealth to their neighbours.  As a consequence, Marrakesh is a bit bipolar.  From the outside, the streets seem barren and dull.  However, once you enter (often through a very nondescript/daunting doorway) into a rihad there is beauty almost everywhere.  This radical transformation from the loud, hot, chaotic streets into these tranquil, cooler interior structures is incredible.

After our first night out in the old city we returned to rose pedals in our swimming pool.  It is a perfect example of how what you see on the outside does not connect with what you experience on the inside

The message here is to always adventure through the doorway before making judgements on Rihads, restaurants and shops.  Don't be fooled by the impression left by the building's facade, venture in and you will be pleasantly surprised more often than not.

We decided to have a late afternoon tea on a terrace overlooking the main square in Marrakesh waiting for the sunset.  The old square is quite quiet during the hot hours of the day however, come nightfall in transforms into this incredible place full of local street performers, snake charmers, monkey handlers and food vendors.  This is definitely something everybody needs to experience and it's perfectly safe at night.

We spent our time getting lost in the narrow winding streets, drinking local Moroccan tea (always with sugar!) and sampling the local cuisine.  For lunches and dinners we would try to get as high as possible and dine on roof top terraces offering views of the city from above.  Catching the sunset in the main square was definitely a highlight.  All the while, through the dust, heat and smog of the city, the silhouettes of the mighty Atlas mountains beckoned on the horizon.

I strongly recommend planning to have either dinner or tea from a high terrace overlooking the main square for sunset.  It is incredible to watch the square transform

Two days in Marrakesh was enough.  It was time to see what these mountains that I'd heard so much about had to offer.  We were off on the 60 km drive to Imill, the town most often used as the access point to the High Atlas Mountains.

This is a view of Toubkal, the highest mountain in Northern Africa, from the Kasbah in Imill.  Just to the left of the tower you can see the beginning of the trail snaking up the valley

Upon arrival, we did a short orientation walk around the surrounding valley.  I was surprised with how much the scenery, architecture and local lifestyle reminded me of Nepal.

This is one of the neighbouring villages to Imill taken from our hotel

This is a shot taken up the opposite valley from Toubkal (again from our hotel).  What struck me was how dependent the place is on water.  Wherever water was available it was green and lush.  As soon as access to water disappeared, so did the colour!

The second day offered a more spirited trek from Imill (1900m) to the Toubkal refuge at 3200 meters of altitude.  The walk itself was quite gentle however, for most of the walk there is no protection from the intense African sun.  I finally decided to discard my western hat and adopt the local headdress.  Hands down, it was the best decision I've ever made.  It is so counter intuitive to me that you can become more comfortable by wrapping a scarf around your head and neck but it is true.  After dawning the traditional "hat" I had no problems with the sun or heat.

This tree on the way up from Imill captured my imagination.  To be honest, it was the last things offering shade for the next 1200 meters of altitude!

I just love this shot showing how the trail really does follow the river all the way to the source.  This was taken looking back from where I'd come on the ascent to the refuge

My only regret is that circumstances did not permit me to summit Toubkal this time around.  It is not easy for me to turn around before hitting a summit.

At approx 3200m stands the two highest refuges in the High Atlas mountains.  Each is well positioned to accommodate climbers before they summit.  Unfortunately for me, they simply offered a warm, traditional meal before heading back down

This is one of my favourite shots for two reasons:  It highlights the architecture used in these high alpine areas.  It also shows the most common form of transportation in the mountains.  A family with a mule is a wealthy family!

In the centre of the photo you can see the Toubkal refuge nestled at the far end of the valley.  This was the destination for today

That said, this gives me an excellent excuse to return to Morocco soon to finish the trip.  I would also spend some more time trekking around the High Atlas mountains because I think they have so much more to offer the further off the beaten track you venture.

I did pass through a small village on my way to the refuge.  It's incredible but each small town has a mosque.  In this instance they had painted the rock beside the mosque white (centre-left of the photo).  I was never able to get an explanation for why?

All in all, this trip to Morocco reminded me of two very important principles.  One, never judge a book by its cover and the only way to know something for certain is to experience it yourself.