Trekking in the Swiss National Park, Aug 2011

Growing up, people used to throw around the expression "just a walk in the park" implying that something was going to be easy or effortless.  Well, after spending a weekend in the Swiss National park, I can assure you that a walk there doesn't really support this notion!

This picture was taken looking into Italy on the way down from the summit on our last day in the Swiss National Park

The GF has long realized that I'm like a dog....if I don't get walked regularly I create havoc at home. So, she thoughtfully planned a trekking weekend to the Swiss National Park near Davos.  The plans were straight forward.  Drive down to Zernez on Friday and park the car.  Walk to a mountain hut for Friday evening, walk to the only hotel in the park for Saturday evening and then drive home on Sunday.  Just a walk in the park...right?

Although this was our first visit to the park, it was certainly NOT our first time walking in Switzerland so we should have known that there are really only two directions for walking...up and down.  We knew that it was only a short distance (approx 3 hrs) to the mountain hut but failed to appreciate that the first two hours were straight up and only the third one was down.  Normally, this would be welcomed with open enthusiasm but when carrying the entire kit for the weekend through a thunderstorm, it seemed more than what we had bargained for.

The next morning was fantastic!  The skies had cleared over night revealing stars like I've not seen before.  It was also the day that the GF learned the value of reading topographic maps.  You see, the hike she had planned for day two required us to climb up and over the mountain range.  Again, usually not a problem but this particular walk involved gnarly switch backs pretty much straight up from the doorstep of the hut.

I like this picture for two reasons.  The first is it is an example of the hours of switchbacks that we walked in the morning of day two.  The other reason is that you can see the trail from day one traversing across the mountain in the middle ground in the centre of the frame

I pretty much giggled to myself the whole way up because it was the first time that I could enjoy an uphill climb without feeling guilty because she had chosen it!  After a long, grueling ascent the view that awaited us in the pass was breath taking.

This photo was taken a few vertical metres from the top of the pass looking in the direction we were traveling.  The mountains in this part of Switzerland look like an uncomfortable cross between the Bernese Alps and the Dolomites

As we descended we got views of this stunning lake.  The colour was a strange milky turquoise that reminded me of glacier milk in Argentina

After a quick, steep descent into the neighbouring valley and another 4 hours of walking we arrived at the Hotel.  Fortunately, not only was the beer inexpensive (relatively) but the food was fantastic!

This photo was taken towards the end of the hike on Day 2 looking back in the direction from which we'd come.  In fact, we had climbed up and over this mountain passing through almost directly above the tip of the small tree in the middle of the frame

Sunday morning again greeted us with perfect conditions for trekking.  The decision had been made the night before to summit the mountain overlooking the hotel.  An early start and we quickly found ourselves walking up again.  However, this was probably the most enjoyable hike of my time here in Switzerland.  We were walking through one of the most beautiful larch forests I have ever seen.  It reminded me a lot of my ski season in Lake Louise.  Because of the early start, there was nobody else on the trail and so we were able to enjoy the tranquility of the moment.

The mountain in the background was the one that we had gone over the day before (almost directly above the house).  This is a rangers hut that we stumbled across just above the tree line on Sunday's walk

This monument greeted us at the summit.  We had an almost perfect morning to make this ascent.  We were extremely fortunate to have beaten the crowds giving us a few minutes alone to take it all in

It's pretty easy to understand how one can get lost in thought when looking down and across this scenery.  The lake here is in Italy with it's higher snow capped mountains in the distance

We made excellent time and were on the summit of the 2590m mountain shortly after 10 am.  The panoramic views of the Swiss/Italian alps were amazing.  After 3 years of trekking in Switzerland, it was here that, for the first time, we came across edelweiss in the wild....and yes, I couldn't help belting out a few prose of the song made famous by Christopher Plummer!

After years of looking we finally came across edelweiss in the wild.  Once above a certain altitude, the alpine meadows on the final day's walk were full of it.

Although this experience didn't support the idea that a walk in the park is something easy or to be taken lightly, it was some of the most enjoyable trekking that I've done in Switzerland.  As you can imagine, in a country that is 225 times smaller than Canada but with a population that is only 4.3 times less it's not easy to find true wilderness; however, this is exactly what the Swiss National Park provided.  It really is a special place to visit.

One to remember - Aletsch Glacier, Aug2011

The tragedy of life is not so much what men suffer, but rather what they miss.  ~Thomas Carlyle

I came across this quotation the other day and it really struck a cord.  I'm not overly fussed with only having one kick at the can of life, but I am terrified that I won't make the most of it.  So, this past weekend, we decided to treat our visitors from Canada to the full Swiss experience!  In my opinion, you can't come to Switzerland without experiencing Swiss Mountain Hospitality, and you can't leave Switzerland without seeing the mighty Aletsch Glacier.

This photo was taken a few hundred vertical metres from the top looking back towards the valley.  The end of the glacier is visible to the right

Now, I must be getting old because the last two years had completely dulled my recollection of just how spectacular this glacier (and the surrounding area) is.  It wasn't until I rounded the corner and caught my first glimpse of this glacier that I was reminded just how fricking spectacular it is.  The glacier snakes it's way down from the top of Jungfraujoch and eventually ends some 23 kms down the valley; this makes it the longest and most voluminous slab of ice in the European Alps.  That's right Chamonix, eat your heart out!  

I couldn't resist taking this photo.  I know it's very stereotypical but I also thought it made a great photo.  The Aletsch glacier starts approximately 20 kms up the valley at Jungfraujoch

This year, unlike our previous visit to Bettmeralp, we decided to take the cable car to the top and walk down along the glacier.  Although I much prefer ascending, taking this hike from top to bottom actually offers you better views of the glacier and still makes for an enjoyable hike.  The first hour is spent descending down towards the glacier.  You spend a considerable amount of time climbing through the remains of an amazing rock slide.  All the while, what you thought was already a spectacular glacier just becomes that much more impressive.  From the top, the ice looks smooth an uniform but as you get closer, you begin to realize just how jagged the ice actually is.  For the truly adventurous, this first section of the hike can end with an up close and personal glacier experience!

Couldn't resist this one either.  As we descended closer to the glacier the deep blue ice colour and ragged surface became much more apparent

From there, after a short but steep ascent we treated ourselves to a nice apfleshorle and took the shortcut through the pedestrian tunnel.  This likely saved us 2 more hours of walking but also came at a costs.  We were not able to see the second glacier which isn't as big but still offers some spectacular scenery.  Another 2 hrs and we were back in Bettmeralp trying some of the local Weiss bier! (wheat beer)

One of the million beautiful views in Bettmeralp.  This chapel greets you as you arrive in town.

All in all, the Aletsch glacier is truly one of the most amazing experiences in Switzerland. It is only a three hour train ride (door to door) from Basel making it possible to visit here in a day (a long one!).  Now, what Swiss weekend experience would be complete without a little adrenaline?  For three years now I've been dying to ride a pimped up scooter down a mountain.  Fortunately, Bettmeralp offered me this opportunity.  Two of us rented these  scooters and made our way down from the top gondola station to the middle station in about 20 minutes.  It was by far, the best 6 francs I have ever spent!

So, if the tragedy of life is leaving stones unturned then at least i have a few less today then I did when this weekend started.

There is always time to goof around

Hospitality in a remote Swiss mountain hut - July 30th, 2011

They say that the world' largest migration takes place in the Serengeti when the large animal herds of Africa head north-south in pursuit of water and food.  I would argue that what takes place in Switzerland during the National Holiday long weekend probably rivals that!

August 1st is Switzerland's Birthday and naturally, the population takes to the mountains and Lakes in pursuit of a little rest and relaxation.  This year, we decided to do the same but with a little twist.  We had agreed to a trekking vacation to the Bernese Oberland region where we'd start in one location, stay in a remote mountain hut only accessible by foot, and finish in another.  I couldn't think of a better Adventure in Switzerland.

Saturday morning we boarded the train destined for Interlaken.  The plan was to ascend the mountain to First (pronounced "fear-st") and start the walk towards Schynige Platte.  Now, this is not the first time that I've done this trip, however, it was the first time that we'd planned to stay in a hut along the way.

The view of Lake Brienz and Interlaken from the ridge above at Schynige Platte

The first day was relatively straight forward.  Unfortunately, in all of the times that I've been to First, I've still yet to see this place in all of her glory.  There is an incredible view from here across an alpine meadow lake that is featured on the cover of many Swiss travel brochures and books, yet each time I'm here it is always covered in cloud.  Oh well, I guess that's as good an excuse as any to come back!  

We spent the first two hour trekking across and up to finally reach Faulhorn.  This is also a relatively remote mountain hut that is literally perched on the very tip of a mountain outcrop.  It's also the start of the World's longest winter sledge run which is an absolute must for this winter!

A short 1 hour trip beyond Faulhorn and we had arrived at the Mountain hut (Weber Hutte or Berghaus-Manndlenen)  Fortunately for us, minutes after we walked in the front door, the rain came teaming down.  

A shot of Weber Hutte take from the ledge above on the morning of Day 2.  You can see the path descending across to the right

The hut is a lovely place to spend an evening.  The night that we were there we shared the space with approximately 30 other trekkers.  The beer was flowing when we arrived, interrupted only by a delicious meal of racklette (A Swiss delicacy of melted cheese of boiled potato and pickles).  The dormitory living arrangements brought back memories of summer camp.  (Travellers hint - always pack earplugs as undoubtably you will run across a loud snorer!)

Day two was what made it all worth while.  Nothing in this world is a beautiful as watching the sunrise across the Bernese Alps on an absolutely clear and still morning.  A short walk before breakfast rewarded me with some stunning views.  After a quick breakfast we were back on the trail.  The second part of this walk is absolutely amazing.  

This was the view that greeted us on the morning of Day 2.  It's taken from the terrace at Weber Hutte looking West as the sun rises behind us

This shot was taken maybe 20 minutes into the hike on Day two.  It's the first view of Lake Brienz in the far distance.  The lake in the front is just a small alpine lake.  Just beyond the ridge in the front right is Axalp (see earlier posts)

You walk through a natural rock garden, traverse high alpine meadows bursting with wild flowers as Lake Brienz slowly reveals itself and finally you pop out at Schynige Platte.  

This place is one of my favourites in Switzerland (see earlier posts) because it offers panoramic views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains to one side and overlooks Lake Brienz on the other.  It really is one of the most spectacular views on earth (on a clear day)

One of the first views of the Eiger and Monch mountains.  Unfortunately, as we walked the clouds that were originally located in the valley began to ascend as the temperature rose, eventually completely erasing our views

One of the thousand views along the trail looking towards the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains.  I tried to capture the diversity of wild flowers in the foreground of this shot

A 1 hour descent from Schynige Platte on the cog train, a quick lunch in Interlaken and we were back on our way to Basel...just in time to watch the most incredible fireworks display I have ever seen.  (the Swiss love to throw a party!) Fortunately, returning on Sunday meant we missed the bulk of the return migration back from the countryside