Here was the dilemma. The GF was going to be out of town on business over the Ascension holidays (2.5 business days off plus Saturday and Sunday) and I had no plans. What an amazing opportunity for another great "adventure". Fortunately, an Australian friend was also looking for an active get-away so we decided some trekking of the Vie Ferrates (Iron Roads) in the Italian Dolomite mountains was in order. Making quick work of the 6+ hour drive (one stop not to miss, the McDonald's just outside of Innsbruck...possibly the best view from any McDonald's anywhere in the world!) and we pulled into our hastily arranged accommodations. Three days meant three treks/climbs and we couldn't wait to get started
DAY 1 - Tre Cime (the three chimneys).
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| The three Chimneys - Classic Dolomite view |
Touted as an absolutely "must do" by our hotel owner, this 6+ hour trek around the famous "three Chimneys" should not be missed. Not only is the scenery spectacular but it's a good way to stretch the legs before some of the more demanding routes.
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| the trail wrapped its way around and up passing this beautiful high alpine lake |
No climbing equipment necessary but pay attention to snow conditions if you're going in early season as the back side of the route required significant trail breaking
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| Three Chimneys from the side |
DAY 2 - Cascata di Fanes - Easy Ferrate with waterfalls to boot.
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| We climbed up the right side, crossed behind the falls then descended via the bottom route on the left. Notice the small walking bridge at the bottom of the falls for perspective. |
We decided to rent some climbing gear and explore these infamous "vie ferrates". The extremely helpful lady working at the information office suggested an "easy" route that explored a gorge just outside of Cortina. It was exactly what we needed as an introduction to these fixed line climbs.
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| Climbing behind the second waterfall. It drops off to the right another 100+ feet. Once on the other side there is a short ascent to the rivers edge |
After a few intense moments we got the hang of the sequential clipping onto and off of the fixed metal ropes. Two short Ferrates later and we were eager for more.
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| One of the more intense sections of the descent. A wrong move here could spell disaster. |
DAY 3 - Rifugio Averau - another "easy" route but this time at altitude
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| View from the top. Descent begins with a drop over the cliff to the left. You can see the first anchor in the bottom left of the photo with the trail continuing in the distance |
The final day was the most exhilarating by far. We drove up the Rifugio Averau and started to climb from there. There was low cloud cover so we really didn't have a clue where we were going. After approx 1.0 hr climb to the top, we clipped in and started the decent down the Ferrate. There is nothing more intense then dropping down a cliff face with only a small metal clip to stop an unplanned fall.
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| Navigating steep descents is made easier with the help of metal ladders |
Making quick work for the first short descent we found ourselves in a high mountain bowl completely covered in snow. There was no way to see the trail and visibility was now down to a maximum 50 feet. This was the second time that I've learned the hard lesson of never going into the mountains without a compass, rope and medical kit! (I won't make this mistake again!) Pour visibility and snow covering the trail meant we were essentially lost. Fortunately, there was a faint foot print trail in the snow that seemed to be coming from the opposite direction. Following these did lead us to the top of the second descent....here is where the fun really began.
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| Most of the way down the second descent. You can see the snow covering the trail in the distance |
The second descent was made incredibly difficult by snow covering the trail. In places this meant we needed to climb and traverse steep sections without support cables, leaving us exposed and vulnerable to a possible high altitude fall. Again, never go trekking into the mountains without a rope irrespective of whether it is a supported climb or not! (This is a note to self)
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| After the descent the clouds lifted and we were awarded with a spectacular Dolomite view |
After a nerve racking and intense few traverses the trail gradually flattened and we found ourselves in the middle of a moon scape. This is scenery I haven't seen since the trek into Tilicho lake in Nepal. This part of the trail can be accessed from the parking area by a moderate walk without any needed for climbing equipment. I would think this a must for anybody visiting Cortina. We finished around 3:30 pm and started the long drive back to Basel. I will certainly be returning to the Dolomites again as this truly is a climbing/trekking mecha virtually on our doorstep from Basel. (stay tuned!)
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