Kandersteg - Altitude, Alpine Lakes and Canadian Trout

Kandersteg is a funny place.  Most people travel through Kandersteg on their way to Valais because it offers a shortcut through the mountain on a train.  To be honest, the first time I heard that somebody was planning a weekend in Kandersteg I thought they were crazy!  I had a terrible impression of the town and the valley didn't seem to really offer much...I couldn't have been more wrong!

One of the first views to meet you as you walk down from the top of the gondola.  Straight up the valley is the Blumlisalphutte and to the right up the steep rocks is the Frundenhutte

Fortunately, Kandersteg is not more than 2 hours away from Basel by train which makes this a very easy place to access.  The train station is in the heart of the small town and the lift station is not more than a 10 minute walk from there.  This means that you can leave Basel early on a Saturday morning and still make it to most of the mountain hut in time for lunch.

From the valley, this town has very little to offer.  However, after you climb out of the valley, it become immediately apparent why the locals want to keep this place to themselves.  A short descent from the top of the gondola station brings you to one of the most beautiful alpine lakes that I have ever seen.

We were extremely lucky to have great weather on both weekends in Kandersteg.  This shot actually reminds me a lot of the Canadian Rockies!  Here you're looking back towards the Doldenhutte which is situated on the middle rock ledge in the centre of this photo

The lake itself is left over from glaciation (and continues to be fed by the multiple glaciers) and supports some of the tastiest, and easily accessible, fishing in Switzerland.  Moreover, after quickly surveying the map and discovering that this area offered three high alpine huts, the purpose for the next two weekends became clear.  We must climb and eat at each one of them!

The lowest hut was the Doldenhornhutte  which was an easy climb from the valley.  As such, it was decided to  cross that one off the list quickly.  Little did we know but the climb up to the hut was actually quite steep and demanding offering a few places with quite high exposure.  The views from the top were stunning looking back towards the lake and the valley below.

This is the Doldenhornhutte which, of the three, was the easiest to access.  It's much lower down than the other two huts but still has some interesting exposure on the walk up

This is the view from the Doldenhornhutte looking back towards the Lake.  On the horizon at the far end of this photo is where the Blumlisalphutte is located (hence the long walk!)

We reserved the more difficult climb for day two.  The Frundenhutte is situated more than a kilometre up overlooking the lake.  As we quickly learned, this trail was also extremely steep and offered some quite substantial exposure.  However, what was impressive was how quickly the lake began to shrink into the background the higher we got.  The rosti in the Frundenhutte was quite delicious making the trip to the top that much more enjoyable.  The location of this hut is really impressive as it looks out, not only on the valley from where we'd come, but also up a very impressive glacier.  It's clear that this valley offers some spectacular mountaineering!

The Frundenhutte is surrounded by rugged peaks and glaciers.  It was quite an effort to get up here for lunch.  The trail is in great condition but there are some sections with a bit of exposure.   We ate lunch on a sun splashed terrace on the back of the hut overlooking the glacier.

A view over the lake and back down the Kandersteg valley.  This photo was taken maybe one third of the way up to the Frundenhutte

Unfortunately, we ran out of time this weekend in knocking off the third and final hut however, we made plans to come back the following weekend to finish off the task.  The last hut was the Blumlisalphutte which was by far the most demanding to access.  In fact, from the valley, it is known to be one of the longest ascents to reach an alpine hut (ie most remote) that there is in Switzerland.  I was not aware of this fact when setting out.  In total, the climb is just under 1700 vertical metres to reach the hut.  This can be made shorter by using the gondola to knock approximately 400 vertical metres off of the climb.

The first section of the trail offers incredible views of the Oeshinensee.

We were really lucky to get great weather two weekends in a row.  I couldn't resist taking this picture with the people enjoying a snack break overlooking the lake

However, these are quickly lost as you climb over the first major uphill section.  For the next 4 hours you essentially gradually ascend towards the top.  This was quite a popular route so we had a chance to meet a number of fellow hikers on the way.

The lake you see here is a smaller glacial lake that is located further up the valley.  This hike essentially walks up a number of old glacier moraines.

The final section of this walk is quite demanding.  Not only are you quite fatigued but the altitude has an additive effect.  Lastly, the trail becomes quite steep so you're faced with the daunting task of climbing a few flights of stairs.  Needless to say, the rosti at the top absolutely hit the spot.

I love this shot because you can clearly see the trail that we've followed to get here.  Moreover, it gives a sense of how steep the trail got towards the top.  Here you can see the GF making her way up a few flights of stairs

This is the view almost from the top looking back towards the Kandersteg valley.  By this point it became obvious why this is considered one of the most remote huts to access.  The trail is still visible under the rock cliff on the right

This is the view from the sun splashed terrace at the Blumlisalphutte.  Although it was a demanding walk to get here the scenery and food made it all worth while!

The descent from this hut was quite uneventful.  We met a super friendly swiss women at one of the huts on the way down and she recommended the "high route" back to the gondola station.  This was an incredible walk with fantastic panoramic views of the lake and valley.  Unfortunately my memory card was full on the camera so will need to go back to snap a few shots!

Without question, the best reward of a trip to Kandersteg is a swim in the lake once you get back.  This is possibly the most scenic swim you will ever experience.  The water is emerald blue, the lake is bookended by a glorious rock cliff and the mountains that surround it are tipped with white glaciers.  What's even more enjoyable is the fresh fish that is served at the local restaurants.

Provided you swim in the afternoon the water is quite lovely.  Certainly one of the most scenic swimming holes that I've ever been in.

Saas Fee - Swiss Mountain Eye Candy

It seems like every time I travel in Switzerland I stumble across something new.  Sometimes it's somebody playing the traditional swiss alpine horn, sometimes it's a glacier that I didn't know existed and sometimes is a fact from popular culture that seems so random it can't possibly be true.  Saas Fee, as it turns out, was one of the destinations filmed in the music video for "Last Christmas" by George Michael.

The view back towards the Saas Fee valley from the walk up to the top of Prattjen lift station.  It was on this ascent that I came across a herd of Chamois, the other species of mountain goat

Saas Fee was the second stop on our Glacier Tour through the Swiss Alps (see previous post).  We'd been here before in the winter for skiing but had never been back for hiking.  To be honest, apart from finding accommodations, we hadn't really done a lot of research but friends had said it offered incredible trekking.  Fortunately, most hoteliers are more than happy to give you some local trekking tips.

The plan was simple.  Get up early and go discover what Saas Fee had to offer.  After discovering that the same hike was featured in our two trusted swiss hiking guidebooks, we were pretty confident that it would offer the experience we were looking for.  The destination was the Britannia Hutte (3029m) which supposedly offered incredible views over the valley towards Italy.  Apart from a name, we didn't really know what lay ahead.

The trail started from the top of the Prattjen lift and would likely take us 5 hours to complete.  Immediately after getting off of the lift we were confronted by a herd of Alpine Ibex (or Steinbock).  It was really incredible to see these wild animals in their natural environment.

Both times that I've done this walk I've been fortunate enough to come across Ibex.  These really are incredible creatures and are confident enough in their climbing skills that they don't see humans as much of a threat.  As a consequence, you can get some incredibly close photos

The trail was everything that we were hoping for.  It hugs the side of the mountain offering tremendous views of the valley as you walk.

A view of the trail back in the direction from which we'd come.  It is a nice gentle uphill pretty much from the start to the Britannia Hutte. 

It's not long into the hike before you get rewarded with incredible views into the valley and the snow covered peaks of the area begin to reveal themselves

However, the real pay off comes once you arrive at the Britannia Hutte.  The first time I completed this walk, the weather was horrible and didn't offer more than approximately 50 feet of visibility.  We arrived at the Britannia Hutte without any great sense of where we'd been or what was in store.  It wasn't until we were sitting inside enjoying some fine Swiss mountain food when the clouds broke and we saw what all of the fuss was about.  Outside, was one of the most spectacular views across a glacier field than I've seen in a long time. 

Once the clouds parted the views were spectacular (in all directions).  This shot is taken from the top of the extra little climb looking back towards the Britannia Hutte

From the Britannia Hutte it is possible to take a short 10 minute ascent up a small hill.  The view from the top is well worth the extra effort.  After spending a few minutes taking it in, a few more to snap far too many photos, we started the descent towards the Felskinn lift station.  The last remaining surprise on the trip was a beautiful traverse across an active glacier.  How better than to end this stop on the Glacier tour than to actually walk across one.

The glacial field is really one of the most spectacular that I have have seen in Switzerland.  What's amazing is that we didn't even know that this existed when selecting this walk

Although not a demanding walk it was still nice to sit down and take it all in.  We chose to buy food at the Britannia Hutte (I recommend the Rosti) but this would also be a great place for a picnic lunch! 

After leaving the hut you descend down towards the right crossing two glaciers (one dry, one wet). In both instances, due to the popularity of this trek the trails are extremely well marked.

Needless to say, our trip to Saas Fee was full of amazing surprises.  So much so, that we returned again the week after to experience more of what it had to offer!

Standing on the roof of Europe - Climbing Mt. Blanc

Aldous Huxley said it best, "Every ceiling, when reached, becomes a floor, upon which one walks as a matter of course and prescriptive right" and after successfully summitting Mont Blanc, Europe's highest mountain (4810m), it is clear that my reference point is forever changed.

A photo of Mont Blanc Massif taken upon arrival in Chamonix.  The Gouter route essentially follows the horizon line from right to left until the summit, third mound from the right (looks smaller because of perspective)

I can't think of a better feeling than setting a goal, training hard for it, and ultimately accomplishing it even against all odds.  The safe return from the summit of Mont Blanc has been an aspiration of mine for as long as I can remember.  I first set eyes on Mont Blanc as a young child visiting Chamonix with my family.  Going up to the Aiguille de Midi and getting a glimpse of vastness of the massif with it's glaciers running in all directions set the hook of what would become a life's ambition....to stand on the highest summit in Europe.

Fortunately, it wasn't difficult to find a friend who also shared in this ambition and we quickly locked in a date for our summit attempt.  It turned out that the only time we were both available was the third week in September, the last week that most guiding companies will lead trips before the harsh winter weather makes the ascent near impossible for the unexperienced mountaineer.  We realized that we were perhaps pushing our luck but it was either then or potentially never.

The week long course was broken down into two 3 day sections.  The first half of the week was spent acclimatizing, ensuring that we'd come with the necessary physical fitness to get to the top (and back) of Mt. Blanc and to train us on the skills that would be required on the mountain.  

On the way up to the Chabod Hut in Italy.  The pointy mountain that you see if the background is the Gran Paradiso (4061m), Italy's highest mountain.  A successful summit of this mountain was the goal for this acclimatization/training trip

A short 2 hour drive from Chamonix into Italy lead us to the bottom of Gran Paradiso, the highest mountain entirely within Italy.  The plan was to hike up approximately 1000m to the Chabod hut (2750m), stay there for the night, have an early alpine start at the summit (4061m) and return to the hut that night. 

We were extremely lucky with the weather in Italy and had just the perfect day for our summit attempt.  The trip to the summit was a straight forward walk up a glacier.  This did present a few hair raising jaunts between crevasses including one 2 metre long ice bridge less than a foot wide.  Crossing this was the most frightening experience of my life as not only did it look like it could collapse at any minute but also any loss of balance would have you falling over 100 metres into the glacier.  Fortunately, both crossings of this death trap went without incident (but not without a bit of drama!)

Looking back up the glacier towards the summit of Gran Paradiso.  This photo shows the number of crevasses that we needed to navigate around (and cross over) in order to get to the summit

To reach the summit of Gran Paradiso one has to take off their crampons and scramble the last 40 vertical metres to the top.  The final challenge is to walk across a foot-wide ledge that hangs over 400m vertical to the glacier below.  This was the second experience to really test the strength of my antiperspirant.

A view from the summit of Gran Paradiso looking back along the ridge that we'd ascended to get there.  I've done some pretty hairy things in my life but this was one of the most nerve racking

It was a tremendous relief to reach the summit safely and to look out across the Italian alps towards, Monta Rosa, the Matterhorn, and of course, the goal for the week, Mont Blanc.

Me on the summit of Gran Paradiso with Mont Blanc just out of focus in the back ground

The second part of the week was the summit attempt of Mont Blanc.  Unfortunately, the good weather that we'd benefited from in Italy was forecasted to change with a front bringing high winds and cold weather to the region.  This forecast made a summit attempt of Mont Blanc impossible and so it was suggested that we change our plans and attempt a different (and significantly smaller) mountain in Switzerland.  Of course, forecasts can be wrong and so four of us decided to stay with the original plan even if that meant spending our last two days locked down in a hut and not reaching another summit that week.  On Wednesday afternoon we set out for what would become our base camp for our (hopefully) Mont Blanc summit attempt.

A photo of the Tete Rousse Hut.  Fortunately, be the time we had arrived on Wednesday the clouds and rain that we started the walk in had parted.  A major concern for the next day (summit attempt) was that over 25 cm of snow had fallen creating the potential risks for avalanche

The plan was to attempt the summit via the Gouter route, the easier and hopefully safer of the two popular routes to the top.  However, this meant that we'd have to traverse the Grand Couloir which is notorious for pelting climbers with rocks and snow, and also scramble up 400 vertical metres of rocky cliffs that stands between the Tete Rousse Hut (3100m) and the Gouter Hut (3500m).  When we went to sleep on Wednesday night the probability of reaching the summit was zero but we were hoping to at least climb to the Dome de Gouter (4300m) or best the Vallot Rescue Hut (4500 m).  I had resigned myself to the fact that a trip back to Chamonix next year would be the only way that I could stand on the summit.

This photo is taken from the Tete Rousse Hut looking up towards the Gouter Hut (mound on the top of the rocky ridge to the left of the photo)  The first stage of the trip to the top would require a 2.5hr scramble up to the Gouter Hut

Our wake up call came at 4:50 am with the guides saying the wind/weather was good enough to at least make an effort for the Gouter Hut.  A short breakfast of bread and jam and we were quickly scaling the rocks towards the Gouter Hut.  Fortunately, it wasn't until we were most of the way up the climb before the sun rose and I could see the degree of exposure that we were facing.  Any slip and we'd be sent hurling over 400m to the rocks below.  Needless to say, reaching the hut gave me the greatest sense of relief that I've had in a while...of course always nagging in the back of my head was the fact that I'd have to descend it all again to get back.

I've heard many people refer to the climb of Mont Blanc as a "walk to the top".  I can assure you that it is anything from that.  This section of climbing between the Tete Rousse Hut and the Gouter Hut is not difficult but there is a fair degree of exposure.  Going up is one thing, coming down on tired legs is something completely different.  Do not under estimate this mountain.

The trip from Gouter Hut to the top of the Dome to Gouter was quite straight forward.  It was simple crampon walking up a relatively safe but steep glacier.  It wasn't until we'd reached the top of the dome that the true goal of the trip came into sight.  It was from here....already 4 hours of hard uphill trekking, that we got the first glimpse of the summit....and the wind, against all predictions, was still light!

This photo is taken from the top of the Dome to Gouter looking up towards the summit of Mont Blanc.  We still have approximately 500 vertical metres to the summit.  Fortunately for us, the forecasted winds of greater than 50 kms/hour had not yet materialized.

The final 300 vertical metres to the top were some of the hardest I've ever done.  Not only are you fighting fatigue, low oxygen, very steep terrain and loose snow but you are constantly aware that one false move, one slight clip of a crampon could send you tumbling off the mountain...on either side.  Fortunately, you could take comfort in the fact that you're on a rope with a very experienced guide.

We were extremely lucky to be on the summit alone.  It is not uncommon during the busy season to have multiple rope crews all summiting at the same time.  We passed this rope team on our way down.  This photo looks back onto the Dome to Gouter.  You can see the route we took up along the spine of "les bosses"

Same rope team just showing the other side.  As you can see, one wrong step at this section of the climb could send you tumbling down the mountain on either side.  You can understand now why wind conditions are such a factor for this climb.

The final 50 metres to the summit are the easiest of the trip.  I was overcome with emotion when we finally took off our packs and pulled out our flags for photos on the top.  All of the hard work preparing for this trip had paid off.  

Our rope team celebrating at the top.  The snowy mound that you can see off in the distance is Monta Rosa, the second highest mountain in the western Alps and likely my next target!

The life long dream that started when a nine year old boy peered out across the Mont Blanc Massif from the Aiguille de Midi, had been realized.  Finally, against all odds, I was standing on the roof of Europe! (4810 m)

A life long dream come true!  September 20, 2012 Jamie Slater on the summit of Mont Blanc, 4810m

The Bigger the effort the greater the pay off - Zermatt 2012

What do you get a women who has almost anything for her birthday?  I'm sure I'm not the first guy who has wrestled with this challenge but I am probably the first who decided that a week trekking in the Swiss Alps was the answer.  Little did I know that by giving this gift to my Mom, we would spend one of the most spectacular weeks of the summer well above 2500 metres.  You see, Switzerland is spoiled with having so many fantastic trekking destinations that it's almost impossible to decide where to take a "foreigner" for their vacation.  Finally, it was decided.  We would check off as many destinations in the Kanton of Valais as possible.

What trip to Switzerland is complete without a view of the Matternhorn?  So, our first port of call was the town of Zermatt.  We found a wonderful little apartment just steps from the train station and made it our home for the next two nights.  The plan was to climb from Sunnegga Paradise (2288m) to Gornergrat (3089m) on the first day and then head up the Matterhorn to base camp (Hornlihutte, 3260m) on day two.

This is the start of the hike from Sunnegga.  The trail offers stunning views of Zermatt and the Matterhorn

The first hike was a pretty grueling up hill but the views from the top are spectacular and well worth the walk.  It goes without saying that the bigger the effort the greater the appreciation of the destination.  One must always remember this when at Gornergrat because it is possible to access this place via train from Zermatt.

This photo was taken after a particularly steep uphill.  The view is looking back towards Sunnegga.  I'm always amazed at the distance one is able to cover

The walk from Sunnegga offers some stunning views across to the Matterhorn.  We were extremely lucky to hit it on a picture perfect day.  In particular, there is one lake that offers terrific photo opportunities of the Matterhorn.  Even though I've been here before I can't resist going a little photo crazy.

I can't help myself from taking a million photos in this location.  The way the trees frame the Matterhorn and create a series of "pyramid" shapes.  We were fortunate to see the Matterhorn without it's customary cloud "hat"

After a few Snickers bars, bananas and other calorie laden snacks we finally arrived at Gornergrat.  The view from here is impossible to a capture in words (or photos for that matter!)  It is said that you can see 7 different glaciers from this vantage point with the Matterhorn standing talk in the background.  If that isn't enough, Gornergrat is the starting off point for an ascent of Monta Rosa, the second highest mountain in the Western Alps.

The view from the top of Gornergrat.  The mountain to the left is Monta Rosa the second highest in the Western Alps

3 of the 7 Glaciers that can be seen from Gornergrat.  It really is one of the most spectacular views in Switzerland

Unfortunately, due to weather and a little residual fatigue we decided to cut short out hike to the Hornlihutte in favour of a more "educational" walk.  We left from Schwarzee (2563m) towards Trockener steg (2939m) along the Glacier route.  The decision to switch plans wasn't made until about 250m vertical shy of Hornlihutte.  Fortunately for us, the clouds were rolling in and all views from the hut would have been lost before getting there.  Needless to say, the Glacier route still offered some fantastic views across some pretty barren high alpine terrain.

The view looking across the valley from the Matterhorn.  We made it this high before deciding to change routes and descend back to Trockener steg. 

This photo was taken looking back up the Matterhorn towards the Hornlihutte (middle of the shot).  As you can see, the clouds were rolling in starting to impede the view of this incredible mountain

We also had the good fortune of spending August 1st (Swiss National day) in Zermatt.  As only the Swiss can, we watched an incredible firework display over the city of Zermatt.  For the first time in my life, the fireworks were designed in a way to accentuate the mountain surroundings, lighting up the rocks and cliffs as they went off.  It was truly an experience I will never forget and one that I don't think could be replicated anywhere else in the world.

Our visit to Zermatt was the first stop in our week long hiking adventure.  What started out as a selection of random destinations quickly took on a theme for the week.  We dubbed this week the "Swiss Glacier Tour" which can now easily be replicated by others.